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Harar Jugol is a walled old city, a UNESCO site, and a centre of Islamic scholarship in the Horn. The lanes are too narrow for cars. Rimbaud's house, the colourful markets, and dozens of small mosques fill a day of walking. At dusk, outside the Fallana gate, men feed spotted hyenas by hand. It is a performance with a long local history, not a zoo.

Hotels are both inside the walls and in the newer town. Dire Dawa, an hour away by road, has the airport and more large hotels if Harar is full.